The capital of Hokkaido, Sapporo is well-known for its beer and ski slopes—but it’s also home to a vibrant specialty-coffee scene.
BY JODEE FOK
BARISTA MAGAZINE ONLINE
Photos by Jodee Fok
On a summer midday, Sapporo feels emptier than you’d expect from one of the country’s most populous cities. Perhaps it’s more of a winter destination; after all, the Japanese city is best known for its ski slopes—besides its miso ramen, craft beer, and fresh seafood—and in just a few months of waiting, you’ll find yourself in a vastly different landscape, every bit of it covered in pure white snow. How dreamy.
But for someone who’s now grown weary of frenetic city life, a slow, quiet walk through summertime Odori Park, passing by the historic Sapporo Clock Tower and Sapporo TV Tower, is so pleasant that you’d love to go on ’til evening. That same sense of restfulness runs through the city’s specialty-coffee scene as well—and what follows reflects only a tiny fraction of it.
BARISTART COFFEE
I’m admittedly not quite into milk coffee, and I’d never been to a coffee shop with such pride in their milk quality until BARISTART COFFEE (BAC). While the menus at most coffee shops are only made more expansive to cater to diverse and emerging taste preferences, BAC has, this day, proudly focused on a single beverage: lattes made with Hokkaido milk.
Why Hokkaido? It has the most flourishing dairy industry nationwide and, thanks partly to its cool climate, produces milk with an exceptionally creamy texture and high fat (>3.6%) and protein content. Their head barista personally visits the farms every few months to select the milk and scout for new sources. On the day of my visit, I was first introduced to two types of milk—both produced by Jersey cows but from two different regions, Biei and Tokachi—and then asked to choose my coffee beans, with two options each for blends and single-origins.
It’s a convenient spot in the heart of Sapporo, but don’t expect to sit in when you’re worn out from shopping, souvenir hunting, and thrifting nearby. This is a takeaway shop with very limited standing space. If you can’t make it to Sapporo but are based in or happen to be traveling to the Philippines, Singapore, or Thailand, you can still enjoy a Hokkaido latte at several of their locations there.
NELD COFFEE CLUB
The streets are even quieter past eight, and looking for a coffee shop that’s still open isn’t easy, but probably because chains aren’t really my go-to. If you and I share the same taste, NELD COFFEE CLUB is for you.
Opened in 2021, this specialty coffee shop features hints of kissaten-inspired interior design: warm, dim lighting, dark wooden furniture, neatly arranged jazz records, a bar counter setup, and more. “Modern” isn’t the most suitable adjective, as they accept only cash, and there is no Wi-Fi. Their drip coffee is brewed with a nel (short for “flannel”) filter, which allows more oils to pass through than a paper filter, resulting in a bolder, richer-bodied cup. They also serve a number of alcoholic beverages such as Irish coffee, along with desserts like seasonal yuzu cakes, both of which I couldn’t resist ordering. The menu is written in Japanese—but for those who aren’t fluent, Google Translate helps.
The owner/barista seems outwardly reserved yet is open to conversation, especially when you sit at the bar. “All-time good drip, all-time good music. That’s what I’m reminded of each day.” Well, this is indeed where I want to frequent with a loved one at night, sipping a drip coffee, conversing while jazz vinyls play in the background.
Standard Coffee Lab
Recommended by a Tokyo-based barista I met at Lonich,, the award-winning Standard Coffee Lab is an easy spot to find: Go straight to the 4th floor of the Mitsukoshi department store and walk to the corner. Drinks are put into three simple categories: drip, espresso, and others (including matcha-based drinks), much like many Japanese coffee shops. They offer a relatively small yet careful selection of single-origin beans roasted in-house and sourced worldwide, for which you’ll have to ask the barista for specific notes. They do have a sizable food menu though, from toasts to cakes and canelés. Adding to the experience is the panoramic view of the Sapporo streetcars passing below from the window-facing seats, which I’m sure will keep you staying longer than your itinerary allows.
I complimented the barista on her brewing before I left to catch my flight to Osaka. She smiled and then said, “Next time you’re in town, visit our nearby location. You’ll be impressed by both the coffee and wine we serve, offering the clearest expression of flavor and terroir.” Yeah, ’til next time!
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jodee Fok is an inquisitive writer of all things caffeinated. She spends her time documenting city café guides, flavor innovations, and sustainable practices, rarely found without a laptop or a pour-over in hand.
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