Writer Jason Huffnagle is traveling all across Europe, drinking coffee and sharing with us the cultures, recipes, and traditions of the beverage all across the continent. In this edition, he explores Salzburg, Austria.
BY JASON HUFFNAGLE
SPECIAL TO BARISTA MAGAZINE
Photos courtesy of Jason Huffnagle
Once part of Bavaria, Salzburg became part of the Holy Roman Empire in the 14th century and functioned semi-autonomously under the rule of its “prince archbishops.” These religious and civic leaders used their political clout and the region’s rich salt deposits to help Salzburg prosper into what it is today—one of Austria’s most beautiful and visited cities. While it is known more for Mozart and The Sound of Music than for its coffee, I found this verdant and sleepy place chock-full of charming coffee establishments, both traditional and third wave.
Roasting and serving its own coffee, 220GRAD is a great stop for any coffee lover. Named after the temperature it typically takes to bring green coffee beans to a nice medium roast—in centigrade of course—this cozy space is a popular spot for locals, which is not surprising considering the shop employs both a full-time baker and chef, and thus offers delicious food alongside its expertly roasted coffee. While there, I had the opportunity to meet the owner and her daughter, who graciously provided me a list of their favorite coffee shops in Vienna, my next stop.
220GRAD’s café is near several landmarks, including the Festung Hohensalzburg, Nonnberg Abbey, and Residenzplatz—a stately square in the heart of Altstadt (old town) where one can visit Salzburg Cathedral and the former homes of Salzburg’s Prince Archbishops, the Alte and Neue Residenz.
Although I did not visit 220GRAD’s roasting operation, the Rösthaus does serve coffee and offers classes for coffee connoisseurs and beginner brewers alike. It is located in the southwestern corner of the city at Maxglaner Hauptstrasse 29.
Take a stroll east along the River Salzach and you’re likely to stumble upon this funky and fun shop. Although space is somewhat limited, I did not have trouble finding a place to cool my heels the several times I dropped by. You cannot go wrong with any of the brew methods or bean options, so take your pick and watch these coffee wizards make you a golden cup of coffee.
Kaffee-Alchemie is a short and scenic walk from the Mozart residences of Geburtshaus and Wohnhaus. Salzburg is a very walkable city, and as such this shop is another coffee option also near the city’s main sights, including the Residenzplatz.
Having a more traditional Austrian vibe, Café Bazaar is a great choice for those who want to experience more of Salzburg’s local culture. Here you will find traditional fare and several Austrian coffee specialties, including the Kaisermelange, which consists of black coffee, egg yolk, and honey. Not feeling quite that adventurous? Give their kleiner (small) or große (large) brauner: black coffee served with a side of steamed milk. After you’ve had your fill of these delights and the spectacular people-watching, take a stroll through the Mirabell Gardens, which is, along with its nearby eponymous palace, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is featured prominently in the musical number “Do-Re-Mi” in The Sound of Music.
After four days in Salzburg, I am headed to the baroque capital of Austria and the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna, which is notorious for its café culture. I am excited to visit the city’s museums and memorials, with coffee breaks strategically interspersed throughout.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jason Huffnagle is a freelance writer for Barista Magazine who has worked in coffee as a barista for six years. Having recently left his “adult job” in the U.S. Senate, the Alaska native is spending the next four months traveling throughout Europe. You can keep up with his coffee-fueled travels and other exploits by following him at @jasonhuffnagle on Twitter.