Next time you have a problem, consider calling on Gunilla Steinwall. Based on the breadth of her success combating low milk consumption in Sweden through the landmark Beige Project, Steinwall can do almost anything.

by Sarah Allen

During the 1980s and '90s, milk consumption in Sweden was showing a steady decline. New or renewed types of beverages had taken over as daily choices for many groups, especially women ages 25-49. The Swedish Dairy Association-the dairy companies' and dairy farmers' organization and expert body-addressed the problem by launching research from 1999 to 2000, which, among other things, identified new habits of milk in coffee as a new opportunity to boost milk consumption. Best of all, they hired Gunilla Steinwall to take charge. Though the coffee and café traditions in Sweden are very strong-Sweden is second only to Finland in per capita coffee consumption-the traditional way to drink coffee is black with just a bit of milk or cream. The country's overall decline in milk consumption for more than 30 years was met with a strategy to accelerate the new coffee culture by providing inspiration and know-how to boost the quality of coffee with milk-based drinks. The promotion focused on identifying the coffee experience as not just straight black coffee, but coffee with milk. And thus, Beige was born.

According to Euromonitor International's Coffee in Sweden report from 2005, “The rising popularity of coffee shop outlets, together with the influence of continental trends, resulted in increased consumption of coffee-based drinks like café latte or cappuccino, for example… This trend also served to boost demand for coffee products among the younger generation of consumers in Sweden. As a result, coffee sales increased solidly in both volume and current value terms in 2005.”

Steinwall had identified the potential of increased milk consumption through the promotion of espresso drinks, but she knew it wouldn't be as simple as just suggesting lattes and cappuccinos to consumers. “Even though a latte costs more than a regular cup of coffee, the quality of lattes varies considerably,” she says. “The differences lie in the craftsmanship involved. It has therefore become increasingly important to provide know-how on how to warm and steam milk, for example, so that it blends beautifully with the espresso to make a delicious latte that is served at exactly the right temperature. Successful latte-making requires an intuitive feel, the right technique and the ability to operate an espresso machine properly.”

She focused on a three-pronged strategy: educational activities; competitions; and ongoing media relations activities, with the target groups determined as coffee drinkers, potential coffee drinkers and café and restaurant owners. Steinwall has been wildly successful on all counts.

One of the first large promotions-and indeed one of the most triumphant-of the

Beige Project was “Masters of Latte Art 2003.” Five of Sweden's best baristas were determined as the Masters of Latte, and boarded a tricked-out bus made to serve as a café and classroom inside, and began touring the country. In each city visited, the bus was opened up to baristas and café owners looking to expand their skills with the Masters. In the end, 800 people received training at 29 locations all across Sweden. “Masters of Latte” was a finalist for the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe's Bold Initiative Award in 2004. “The reactions on the education have been very positive,” the judges noted. “More than 95 percent have learned from the education and will implement the techniques in their café. Media has shown a great interest: 34 newspaper journalists have visited the bus to cover the tour; 13 radio features and six TV features have been broadcasted.”

Want to read more about Sweden's Beige Project? Then order this back issue of Barista Magazine!